The time I had in Poland was short lived, but well worth it. I've flown by myself a number of times, but traveling completely solo with no one to great me on the other end was a whole new kind of experience.
I arrived to Kracow at about 9:30 on Wednesday night. I had instructions to find tram 2 in order to get to the hostel. There were signs for other trams, but no tram 2. I went out a couple of different exits, looking for any sign of tram 2. I even asked people, but their bad English and my lack of Polish kept directing me to platform 2 . . . For a while I wandered around pretty hopelessly, and by a while, I mean about 10 minutes. I was emotional from being tired and from saying goodbye to everyone earlier, but refused to let myself actually cry there in public. I eventually caved and got a taxi. I couldn't see the screen with the fare, so the entire time I was freaking out about how the driver was probably going to rip me off, but the screen ended up on being in a weird location that he eventually pointed out and wasn't at all unreasonable.
The hostel I had booked with was located in more of a residential area than within the actual city. I had known that going into it, and really wasn't sure how it would be, but had decided that since I was by myself I would have rather had a smaller, quieter hostel. It was super weird the first night. I walked in and was checked in by the staff person on duty, but I'm pretty sure he was the only one there, which is what made it seem so weird. There were other bags in my room though, so that made me feel a little better. I ended up going to bed early that night, and the bed at the hostel were the most comfortable thing I has slept on all summer!
I was up early the next morning for two tours, first to the Wieliczka Salt Mines, and then to Auschwitz- Birkenau. Initially I hasn't planned on doing the salt mines, but after reading some reviews it seemed to me that it was somewhere worth going. And Auschwitz is something I've wanted to tour for years now, and was actually part of the reason I chose Krakow over Warsaw to visit.
The salt mines honestly didn't meet my expectations. They're really interesting, but I think that after crawling through the silver mines a few weeks ago in Kunta Hora, the Wieliczka Salt Mines were just a glorified museum inside of what used to be actual mines. The mines are still in production, I could hear it going on beyond the museum walls, but what visitors see has been altered and reconstructed for tourist viewing. It just didn't feel as real, I guess, as other mines I'd been to. It was definitely still interesting though! The mines are absolutely massive-- it would take seven months of walking around non-stop to see every part of the mine. There are also multiple chapels inside of the museum portion of the mines-- one of which there are regular services, weddings, and funerals held in.


Honestly, Auschwitz-Birkenau deserves its own post, so that will come after all of thisI had a few hours between the salt mine tour and Auschwitz that I spent wandering around the main city square. I got back from Auschwitz at about 9pm that night mentally drained. Throughout this day in general, I had felt really weird about being on my own. I had talked to tour guides when needed and made small talk with some people in the hostel, but was really just doing my own thing. By the time I was on the bus back from Auschwitz, I lost it a little bit and even considered catching an earlier train to be back in Prague Friday night instead of on the overnight train. The rationalization I had was that I wouldn't have to rush in those few hours between getting off of the overnight train and going to the airport-- but in the back of my head I knew that was just a lame excuse and that I really just wanted to spend my last night in Europe in the company of someone I actually knew and could talk to. I knew that unless there was a train in the later afternoon that it would really be such a waste of a trip, and that regardless, I was being a little ridiculous and would regret leaving even just those few hours early. So, I sucked it up! And even as soon as I made my decision to stay with the original plan, I knew it was the right thing to do. I had gotten to do Auschwitz like I had really wanted, but I still really wanted to explore more of the city!
I was up early on Friday for another tour. This time, it was a tour of the actual city. We stared in the Jewish Quarter and got a little of the history of Jewish culture in Krakow. Before WWII, a quarter of the population was documented as being of Jewish heritage. Today, there are only 200 of the 990,000 residents who are documented as being Jewish. Our guide recognized that there are certainly more who just haven't documented it, but that is such a huge decrease! I believe that there are seven synagogues in the city, but only two of them actually hold regular services because the demand for more just isn't there. The other ones have been turned into museums of Jewish culture, and the like. We only walked down one street within the district, but I had really been hoping for a little more. I decided that I would try to go on a Jewish heritage walking tour that happens at 3pm every day.
Next, we went up to Wawel Castle. Part of it is Royal Cathedral, where Pope John Paul II had been a Bishop for a number of years.
The castle itself was interesting, but had been altered and formed more into a display of the different art and architechture that had been in the castle at one point or another, and didn't really show much of how the living quarters had really looked while people lived in them. I think that between the salt mines and the castle, I'm able to conclude that I prefer visiting places that have been well preserved in their original form . . . I definitely still enjoyed it though! But in going to so many differnt types of places this summer, that is a preference I have definitely noticed. We weren't able to take photos inside the castle, but here are some from outside.


We eventually made our way into Old Town and visited st. Mary's Basilica. If for nothing else, the tour was completely worth it for this. I don't even know how many beautiful places of worship I've seen this summer, but of them all I can't remember a single one that beats St. Mary's in jaw dropping beauty, at least in my opinion. I'm big on color, so maybe it had something to do with the sea blue/turquoise shading accented with gold, but St. Mary's is absolutely gorgeous! The Veit Stoss Altar sits at the front, awaiting to be opened each day (I believe at 10 of noon, but no promises). We were there a little before it opened, so we were able to see all of the scenes on both the inside and outside of the alter. Then, at the start of each hour, a trumpeter plays the start of what was a warning tone to the people of Krakow. He does it four times-- once in the north, east, south, and west-- but stops abruptly each time he plays, representing the trumpeter who had been been playing this tune and stopped abruptly when struck by an arrow. after seeing the alter open, we went outside to see the trumpeter. It was neat, and definitely something I would not have known to go see had I not gone on the tour.





There had been this little, old Aussie couple on the tour with me that befriended me, probably because I was alone. They had actually traveled around a lot of the U.S. and I had been to Australia, so we had a fair amount to talk about, aside form the tour itself. It was just nice to have some people to talk to even just for that little while. In general, my mentality about being alone was better on Friday, and I definitely would have been angry with myself if I had left an earlier.
The plan had been for me to go on the Jewish heritage walk at 3pm. We got done my other tour at noon, after stating at 9am. I had every intention of going, but after killing hours of time walking around everywhere I was exhausted! To top it off, Krakow was miserably hot that day! I definitely could have made it, and maybe I should have, but I decided to go back to the hostel for a little while. I had to get some stuff together for the train anyways . . . Aga, the lady who owns the hostel recommended that I take my break but then go check out Schindler's Factory, which she said was a must-do anyways. So that's what I decided to do.
Schindler's Factory is now a museum which highlights the effects and history of WWII, specifically in Krakow. I had gone in not too long before they stop letting people in, so I felt slightly rushed, but still picked up so much from it. A lot of complaints that the museum gets, is that it isn't actually about Schindler or his help to the Jews. I had read that before going though, so I knew what to expect. It was definitely worth it to go, and probably even covered more than the other tour would have. In my Auschwitz post I will probably end p on talking a little more about it . . .
I got back to the hostel just in enough time to have some dinner and leave for the train. I took tram 2 from the hostel to the station this time. I found the station with no problem, but seriously have no idea how I would have ever known where to go in order to get from the station to the tram the few nights before. It made me feel better about all of my frustrations from that night at least . . .
The time that I had in Poland was definitely short, and a little lonely, but still well worth it. It was cool to get to my hostel and to sign up for tours, and then have people be like, "woah, you have a really polish surname." In general, it was so weird going away to a foreign country, while already being in a foreign country. I felt that when we went to Ireland too. My time for doing that within Europe is up now, but to a certain extent I think that traveling around, especially by train, is very much part of the European experience.
Despite the little bumps in the road, Krakow was well worth it! Hopefully I will be back again someday, for longer and with someone!
The famous fire breathing dragon:
The main square and marketplace: